The small Polish town of Oswiecim (Auschwitz in German) has long felt that it suffered from association with the horror of the nearby Nazi death camp, but some residents hope the town can begin to be seen in a more positive light.”You want a map of the town, not just the museum?” The tourist information officer looked sceptical at first, then delighted. She rummaged in a drawer – clearly one she did not open that often – and pulled out a brochure. There were, she ruefully admitted, very few visitors to this place interested in anything beyond the Auschwitz museum. It is hard growing up somewhere the rest of the world sees as the symbol of evil After I had made my own visit, I headed away from the crowds into the elegant old town centre.A modest cafe or two were open, old men sat in the tree-lined square feeding the birds, shoppers ambled around in a scene you would find in any small Polish town.No signs in any foreign language, nowhere selling souvenirs. While more than a million people arrive up the road at the museum every year, in the town centre there is no hint of it being a tourist destination.